NOTSHOCUZ

Back on the NOTSHOCUZ!

Christian — Sun, 02 Sep 2007 22:52:05 +0000

Sorry no follow up story on my Indo trip yet. I made it home safe and sound. All in all, I was a little disappointed in the waves I got this year, although I did go to some new places and had some really cool, meaningful, cultural experinces. I got to know some locals there pretty well and learned a small amount of Indonsian, It took me a few weeks to stop saying thank you in Indonesian. Tera makasi for reading. cb

Last week in Bali

Christian — Fri, 03 Aug 2007 08:11:19 +0000

Just wrapping up my trip, cruising in Kuta, Bali. Surf has been ok. Fun session at Uluwatu. Surfed at the temples peak, which is in full view of the main peek at Ulus, but up current. It is a double up wave, that is fun if you can read it. It is relatively uncrowded and really fun when tide and swell cooperate. Chris Cordio, Jesse Thielan and I also spent some time at Balangan, which is down the coast a bit. The wave were big but inconsistent. I think we averaged about a wave an hour. My first wave was one of the bigger ones of the day. I had to paddle, kick and scratch my way into it. I rode for about a hundred yards doing big carves until I hit the end section which heaves into what we endearingly call the death bowl. You see the most hollow barrel setting up, and your natural instinct, for surfers that is, tells you to pull the !#*k in! Then hopefully, reason prevails…because you have about a split second to get out. I have pushed this timing a few times, including on this wave. I always find myself hoping for the impossible, “I can make it or at least pull in for a little while…” Not! The wave squared up and produced a solid overhead, two foot thick barrel that ended in virtually dry reef. Punching through became my only option. Now on a small or less powerful wave, a person of my gravitational substance, would have no problem, I knew this was different. I managed to punch though and waited for board to reappear. Still waiting as the next wave approached. Then my board shot out of the water towards me, tail first. I had seen this before and quickly ducked, then grabbed m board in time to execute somewhat of a duck-dive. Not fully on the board, the next wave start to pull my board out of my hands, my board slipped down between my hands until i had just one holding the last foot of it for a few seconds, and the it was gone. i came up to retrieve it for the next wave and realize the wave had also taken my leash off for me. Luckily my effort to hold it had kept it close to me, so i put my leash on and paddled back out in time to watch Cordio get rewarded with a nice peeling 6-8′ footer, with off-shores blowing off the top like the mags. spent the rest of the day at Nicky’s warang, bintang,massages and don’t forget the mie goreng.

Krui Report

Christian — Sat, 28 Jul 2007 07:42:49 +0000

Well I must admit that Krui was a little diappointing, although still uncrowded and plenty of swell, the wave direction was to southerly and made the wave pretty flat and boring. Evan the big days were no fun becuse the faces were not that carvable. We did get alot of footage on the good day or two. Sea lice really got me, so I am very itchy- they are alot like many many mosquito bites. Logistics were also a problem, so most of my trip is over wihout much time to go anywhere else. I may call in sick and stay longer. Hope my boss doesn’t read this. I also manged to drop my new laptop, something you are not supposed to do! My spirits were lifted today with an unexpected fun day of surf at Uluwatu. We surfed the peak called temples and it was fun, dumping and uncrowed. I evan got a little tubetime. Taking some waves on the head always makes me feel better. I am sorry for all the whinning, usually I like to make you all jeolous of my adventures. Remember surfing is like fishing, you never know what you are going to get, so you just keep going. peace out!

Bound for Krui

Christian — Mon, 16 Jul 2007 02:18:15 +0000

Getting ready for Krui, South Sumatra. Ran into a french guy, Jon, who I met there last year. He told me he stayed for six weeks, and it never got flat. He actually said he spent most of the time hoping it would get smaller. We were stoked to hear that my week there last year was no fluke. I am not sure if I will be able to post messages from there, they did have one computer with internet there last year. I should be back in Bali around the 26th. Aloha cb

Secret spot

Christian — Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:22:58 +0000

Surfed a break two hours up the coast that breaks when most of Bali is flat. Super fun A-frame wave that is fun for shortoarding. One of the few waves here that allows you to cut back and hit the lip. Amazingly uncrowded and those there were mostly beginners, allowing the hawaii crew to rule. If you do your homework, you can easily find this place. It is usually only good in the morning but today the wind cooperated all day.

Nusa Lembongan

Christian — Sat, 14 Jul 2007 11:21:35 +0000

Went back to Nusa Lembongan with my friend Chris Cordio who is here after 18 months of english teaching in Japan. Super chilled out place to hang out. We stayed at Bungalow No. 7, which is right on the beach. Nusa Lembongan is a small island near Bali and is just a 30 minute boat ride from
Sanur. I can’t say enough about the Lembongan community of about 2000 people and Made, Putuh and Parents who run No. 7. After 4 days of food, lodging and drinks, my bill was about 80 dollars. The religion there, like Bali, is Hindu. I was invited to go to ceremony there, which was amazing. They even let me video. I felt a little self conscious with the camera, but they assured me it was ok. Their artistic sense was shown through the music and dress, They evan gave Chris and I sarongs and head pieces, called udeng, to wear. The ceremony is about two hours, and consists of Gamelon music and prayers by the priests until near the end, when the priest come and bless everyone and they all chant together. At first it seemed to me that that the people didn’t take the first part seriously, because most were talking with each other. I told my local friend and he said that this is the time for them to all see each other and talk story. It made me realize how this helped preserve the sense of community that I saw there. In the end it went very quiet as everyone chanted ohm…and an Indonesian prayer. Video coming when I get home. Surfwise, we only surfed a few times and it was as big as hoped. I did score a packed session at Playgrounds, or Hells Playground if you talk to Chris. He got a nice momento from the reef. Despit the crowd, I was in the zone on my new board. I think I caught about fifteen waves, and many smacks. Lembongan is a great place for familys, diving and meeting cool Indonesians. Oh yah, dont’t forget the suckling pig, no plates no utensils. From the spit to the table, rival with emu style. The Lembongan boys really know how to have a good time and surf too. Aloha, over and out.

Balian

Christian — Mon, 09 Jul 2007 07:33:38 +0000

Cracked it this morning and drove up to Balian. Surf was about four feet and good morning conditions. Jut’s peak was firing , but we decided to hit the main peak. Pretty fun mellow point break with some shifty peaks that spread the crowd. Nice to due some turns and test my new board. Plan to go to Lembongan tomorrow to catch Laserations and shipwrecks. Then we will most likely jump on our friends new boat, the Wavehunter(wavehunter.com) to surf deserts, scar reef and whatever else we can find. Aloha

Bali-Lembongan

Christian — Fri, 06 Jul 2007 10:57:53 +0000

Arrived safe and sound in Bali…Mom & Dad. First night in Bali, hung out with Richi, crew from last year and the G-land office gang. Lots of Celebrating and a few good surfs trying 2 new boards that i hadn’t riden yet. Stoked on the boards and a short trip to Lembongan for Richi’s b-day celebration. Had one of the most awesome snorkles this morning there, which rapidly cured my hangover. Now back in Bali waiting for Cordio to show. Stay tuned….To friends on the Notshocuz….send me shirt or short sizes and desired colors, if you want… Aloooooooooooooooha!

Half way there.

Christian — Mon, 02 Jul 2007 07:55:07 +0000

I am currently sitting in Osaka, Kinsai Intl. cool as airports go… Packing was torturous, you think i would have it down by now! 6 more hours to Denpasar, I can’t wait! Aloha

2

Christian — Thu, 21 Jun 2007 01:21:08 +0000

Less than 2 weeks before Indo trip. Website coming along.